Those dazzling beaches, those heavenly blue seas, and the moist warm breezes are just the first of the attractions of St Lucia. Award-winning travel journalist George Ward joins a walking tour across the island and finds birds, flowers, and cutting edge medical research set amongst giant bamboos and laid-back rum shacks.
My ultimate destination was the Pitons, the iconic beachside peaks that appear on all St Lucia literature. But I needed a little gentle training first, and joined a walking tour. Thankfully, the humid Caribbean climate is ideal for stretching the muscles. It's like walking in a steamy bathroom: no need to warm up or cool down; knees no longer creak, calves transform into well-oiled pistons, and by the second day everyone feels vastly smug about their physical condition.
In the forest we follow twisting trails, peering down at scuttling crabs, and up into the canopy for the turquoise flash of a humming bird, the red neck of the Jaquot parrot or its larger cousin, the Sisserou. Waxy hibiscus flowers drop onto the path. Looking round I see our young Rasta guide, Vision, bringing up the rear. He is twirling a gaudy flower between his fingers and singing softly in a fluty falsetto.
We stop at a rum shack for a beer. Behind the counter is a demi-john full of brown liquid, leaves and seeds. One of the girls asks what it is and a regular with what look like machete scars across his shoulders and upper arms laughs. "It's spice rum," he says, "very good for you."
We visit Mamiku Gardens. There are plants for cancer, wind, indigestion, migraine, even a sappy inner bark that binds a deep machete cut better than plasters or stitches. It sounds a little fanciful, but then, as the rest of the party are made up of doctors, and bio research company researchers, the scientific world is suddenly taking St Lucia very seriously indeed.
The next day we cross the island, from the Atlantic rollers of the east coast, through the rain forests, past the green swathed Mount Gimie, to the Pitons on the calm western, Caribbean side of the island. It's rainforest, but here the sun lights up the canopy, and there are dizzying, unnerving moments when, walking under the fronds of a 20ft high tree fern, or passing a bamboo thicket towering 50ft high, I have the distinct impression of having shrunk to the size of a child in a giant's garden.
Lunch is taken in a clearing with parrots overhead, and a boa constrictor, looking reassuringly well fed, basking in the grass. We make the long descent towards Soufriere and our hotel, Haut Plantation, on the slopes above it. The hotel is of traditional gingerbread design. The rooms, in an annexe, have balconies looking out towards the Pitons. A cruise ship appears beside them, dwarfed by their height.
We breakfast on freshly squeezed grapefruit, accra, fish cakes, banana and nut bread, creole bread, and local cinnamon flavoured chocolate. Today we climb the Grand Piton, all 2,700ft.
At first the ascent is a walk in the park. Then the Piton goes vertical. Suddenly my nose is close to the steps and my hands are looking for grip as the heels of the climber ahead push up and onwards. When we at last reach the summit, all of St Lucia lies below us, a long, long way below us. I look out over the peak of Petit Piton. A helicopter heads for the smart Anse resort, no larger than a perky white dragonfly. Inland, the unbroken canopy hides the parrots, the hibiscus, the tree ferns, clacking, curious bug-eyed land crabs, tomorrow's medical discoveries, and the village run shacks. Feeling smug? You betcha!
George Ward travelled with Headwater who offer week-long guided walks in St Lucia: www.headwater.com.
